The Sportsman, A Year On

Not a lot has changed at The Sportsman in Seasalter. There's not much I can expand on from last year's visit, save that most of the tasting menu hasn't changed. Little flourishes here and there are different; wild sea bass instead of turbot on the same vividly grey sauce, a quince paste instead of apple with the above pickled herring. They know what they're doing over there, and if it aint broke then I suppose, why fix it? Here are some highlights.

God, that butter. Almost cheese like, and the soda bread was again a favourite. Treacle sweetness and so moreish.

Seaweed season is over, so this year's slipsole was dressed in butter and espelette pepper. So simple and so wonderful.

Of the lamb rump (roasted on the bone) and shoulder, the rump was my favourite. Buttery texture and crispy skin.

Pear lollies with ginger cake milk was delightful and refreshing. I need cake milk.

Some may argue that The Sportsman need to change their menu more often, but as I'm only going once a year slight variations year on year suit me fine. A little gem of a place. I wish I lived closer.

EDIT 19/10/10 - I received a very lovely email from the head chef, Stephen Harris, who wanted to clarify a couple of points. Our table was extra large (9 of us), a favour from The Sportsman to accomodate us and as such they weren't able to make the menu quite as bespoke; however, if you do visit more than once they are happy to devise the menu around dishes which you may have had before, if you want to try something new. Favourites such as the ham and the pork scratchings usually stay on (thank god - for the pork scratchings are humungously, obscenely good) but please don't take my 'take two' to show that they are not spontaneous or adventurous, as this aint so. I've had many messages declaring their love for dishes there that weren't on this or the previous year's menu.

The Sportsman

Faversham Road
Seasalter
Whitstable
Kent CT5 4BP

Tel: 01227 273370

The rest of the meal can be seen here.