Harissa – Once You Go Tunisian, Other Hot Sauces Aren’t as Pleasing

Harissa is probably my all-time favorite hot sauce, and one I’m sure you’ve seen me use in a bunch of recipes here. As I mention in the video, a small spoonful of this makes virtually any savory dish better.

Now, I’ll admit to usually buying mine in convenient tubes imported straight from Tunisia, but I decided to show you my homemade version, since I do get the occasional note saying, “Chef John, I’m in the witness protection program, living in rural North Dakota, and they don’t carry many North African condiments at the market...what else can I use?”

As with any similar recipe, there are countless variations using many different combinations of fresh, roasted, boiled, and dried chili peppers. Same goes for the spice, but I really like the blend listed below. Dried mint really has a unique, and much different flavor than the fresh herb, and as I hope you experience, toasting the caraway and coriander does wonderful things.

I could do a 5000-word essay on what you can do with this sauce, but just for starters consider these ideas; Harissa aioli, pizza sauce, sandwich spread, steak sauce, chicken marinade, and rubbed on your knee to help that arthritis (warning: check with your family doctor before starting any sauce-based treatments).

Anyway, if you’ve seen me use Harissa, and were frustrated that you didn’t have access to any of this magical product, now you can make your own. Enjoy!

Ingredients:

2 red bell peppers, fire roasted, peeled, seeded

6-7 red Fresno chili, seeded

1 habanero, seeded

4-5 garlic cloves, peeled

1⁄4 to 1/2 tsp caraway seeds

1⁄4 to 1/2 tsp coriander seeds

1⁄2 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp dried mint

1 tsp kosher salt or to taste

juice of 1 lemon

2 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, added to blender at very end (do not blend more than a few seconds)

Happy Saint Patrick's Day!

Instead of wearing something green in honor of Saint Patrick's Day, I decided to post something green. There are robins in the garden, baseball on the radio, and soon you’ll be cooking out on the patio; and what better sauce to have around for those occasions than the delicious-on-anything chimichurri? (click here to get ingredients, and read the original post)

Besides being very green, this recipe is also perfect for a St. Paddy’s Day re-post because, as legend has it, an Irishman named Jimmy McCurry (who fought alongside Argentinean rebels in the early 1800's) is credited with introducing this sauce to the America’s. Thanks, McCurry, and a happy Saint Patrick's Day to you all! Enjoy!

Chicken, Asparagus and Potatoes in a Garlic Cream Sauce

It will soon be fresh asparagus season over here and I can't wait. I think that the UK has some of the best asparagus in the world! Fresh asparagus is available pretty much all year round these days . . . but more often than not it is from Kenya . . . not the local seasonal stuff . . .



I just love asparagus. It epitomizes spring to me . . . like strawberries and Wimbledon, the three seem to go together hand in hand. It was not a vegetable we ever had in my home when I was growing up. I think I only ever tasted it once rolled inside some sandwiches at a childhood tea party and I wasn't sure that I liked it. It was probably tinned, and so it's no wonder . . .



Fresh asparagus is one of the true treasures of springtime. I love it slightly steamed and served with some lemon butter for dipping or with some rich and delicious hollandaise. I love it tossed with olive oil, sea salt and cracked black pepper and then roasted in the oven until it gets all slightly caramelized on the edges, and crispy tender inside. I know it's not quite fresh asparagus season just yet, but I can't help but getting a jump start on it.

Asparagus pairs up wonderfully with chicken . . .



*Chicken, Asparagus and Potatoes in a Garlic Cream Sauce*
Serves 4
Printable Recipe

I like to use Charlotte potatoes in this. They have a wonderful flavour and roast up nicely, keeping their shape. You will need two bunches of asparagus for this recipe.

500g of charlotte potatoes, cut into wedges (1 1/4 pound)
1 tsp cracked black pepper
1 TBS olive oil
4 single boneless chicken breasts (with the skin)
400g asparagus trimmed (about 1 pound)
a small packet of chopped pancetta lardons (about 1/2 cup)
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
125ml chicken broth (or dry white wine if you are so inclined, 1/2 cup)
2 TBS whole grain french mustard
300ml double cream (about 1 1/8 cup)


Pre-heat the oven to 200*C/400*F. Combine the potatoes, pepper and olive oil in a large bowl. Tip them onto a large shallow baking tray in a single layer. Roast uncovered in the heated oven for 20 minutes or until just beginning to brown.

Meanwhile, heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add a tiny bit of oil and then brown the chicken breasts well on both sides. Place the chicken, in a single layer, over top of the potatoes and roast for an additional 10 minutes, until the potatoes are nicely done and the chicken juices run clear.

Steam or boil the asparagus for several minutes, until just tender. Drain and keep warm.

Place the pancetta lardons in a nonstick skillet and brown over medium high heat, until nicely crisped. Drain off all of the fat. Add the garlic to the pan and cook, stirring until fragrant. Don't brown. Tip in the broth. Bring to the boil, scraping up the pan drippings and crispy bits. Boil until reduced by half. Add the cream and mustard. Bring back to the boil. Boil, stirring, until the mixture thicken slightly.

Divide the asparagus between 4 heated plates. Top with the potatoes. Spoon on half of the sauce. Lay the chicken breast on top and then spoon the remaining sauce over top. Serve immediately.

Pizza Sauce – Let’s Play ‘Hide the Little Fish’

I can assure you that the anchovies in this pizza sauce recipe are there for the subtle saltiness and unique savoriness they provide, and not just so you can tell your friend (the one who really hates anchovies) that they just ate some. Could it be for both? Sure.

This pizza sauce recipe represents a new and improved version of the one we posted way back in 2007. We snuck in some of the aforementioned fish, and we’re also using both fresh and dried oregano. I love this sauce. If there’s a tastier, all-purpose pizza sauce recipe out there, I haven’t tried it.

Convention wisdom says that great pizza is all about the crust. Which is certainly a huge factor, but if you were given the choice between a great crust topped with a bad sauce, and a grocery store crust made with a delicious, world-class sauce, which would you prefer?

Texture aside, no mater how they're combined, flour, water, and yeast can only taste so bad. But, a terrible sauce can actually make a slice of pizza inedible. I can’t remember ever not eating a piece of pizza because the crust was so awful, but I've given up after biting into an inferior sauce before.

Of course, around these parts the argument is completely academic since we’ve not only provided you with a plan for perfect sauce, but given you several great pizza dough recipes, like our famous no-knead pizza dough, as well as the venerable Wolfgang Puck California-style dough recipe. I hope you make pizza soon. Enjoy!

Ingredients (makes about 3 cups):

3 tbsp olive oil

2 anchovy filets

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 tbsp chopped fresh oregano

1/4 tsp red pepper flakes, or to taste

1/4 tsp dried oregano

1 can (28 oz) whole peeled “San Marzano” tomatoes

salt and pepper to taste

1/2 tsp sugar

very small pinch baking soda

Balsamic Beurre Noir – A Black Butter Sauce Any Femme Fatale Would Love

It’s too bad I didn’t go to film school. If I had, I could have done a clever play on the film noir genre for this balsamic beurre noir recipe. 

Of course, it would have been done in black and white, and featured a chain-smoking, fishnet stocking-clad femme fatale who would eventually double-cross me after a few extended close-ups of spinning ceiling fans. But, I didn’t, so all you get is this plain old video for an incredibly easy and delicious, garlic-spiked, balsamic butter sauce. 

The name is going to confuse a few culinary students out there. Technically, a “beurre noir” refers to a sauce where the butter is cooked until it turns a very dark brown, almost black color. I’m using the term “beurre noir,” as one would use “beurre blanc,” a butter sauce made with reduced white wine, or “beurre rouge,” one made with red wine. The technique is identical for these types of sauces, and we just change the name depending on the color.

For you guys out there looking for Valentine’s Day recipe ideas, you can’t go wrong with this very sexy sauce. Everyone knows cooking dinner for your sweetheart on V-Day is way more romantic than taking her out, and you really can’t beat the old home field advantage for these occasions. You don’t have to hire a private dick to figure that one out.

Anyway, I hope you give this a try soon. Rent some classic film noir, grill up some meat or fish, and spoon over this dark, dangerous, and deeply delicious sauce. Enjoy!

Ingredients for 2-3 portions:

2 tsp melted butter

1 sliced garlic clove

1/3 cup aged balsamic vinegar

1 tsp minced red chilies

1/2 tsp tomato paste

salt and pepper to taste

2 tbsp unsalted butter

Spicy Peanut Butter & Pepper Jelly Chicken Wings – Gimmicky, But No Gimmick

On the surface, it may seem as though this gimmicky-sounding peanut butter and jelly chicken wings video is nothing more than a cheap attempt to get a recipe to go viral right before the Super Bowl. Sure, the semi-shocking name will probably generate some added buzz, but I promise you, this is no gimmick.

I was thinking of doing some kind of chicken wing glazed with an Asian-style peanut sauce, but texturally wanted something a little stickier. That brought thoughts of a possible peanut butter and jelly collaboration, which came into final focus after a brilliant suggestion by Michele to use pepper jelly.

The result was a spicy, sticky, and, thanks to the peanut sauce base, quite unusual chicken wing-eating experience. If you're a fan of satay, you should enjoy this approach. As I mention in the video, this recipe can be easily adapted, and finding unique brands of pepper jelly would be just one way to tweak it.

I’m also excited to share a method I’ve been working on for getting oven-baked wings with a texture closer to something that comes out of a deep fryer. By adding a thin layer of potato starch to the wings, a nice crusty exterior is forged in the hot oven, which not only adds some great texture, but really helps grab on to the sauce.

With the NFL playoffs in full swing, it’s time to raise your game when it comes to the snack table. Have your Buffalo wings become too predictable? Has that ranch dip lost a step? Then I hope you consider shaking up the roster with these spicy peanut butter and pepper jelly wings. Enjoy!

Ingredients for 40 pieces of Peanut Butter & Pepper Jelly Chicken Wings:

For the wings:

5 pounds chicken wing sections, thawed, patted very dry

toss with…

2 tbsp vegetable oil

1 tbsp kosher salt

1 tsp black pepper

cayenne to taste

1/4 cup instant mashed potato powder or flakes

*Bake at 425 for about 50 minutes, turning once

For the sauce:

1/4 cup smooth peanut butter

1/4 cup pepper jelly

2 tbsp soy sauce

1/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar

2 tbsp fish sauce

sriracha hot sauce to taste

4 cloves crushed garlic

1/2 tsp red chili flakes

1 tbsp toasted sesame oil

Creamy Mushroom Meatloaf – An Experiment in Letting Your Meat Loaf

If you’ve ever said goodbye to someone, and on the way out added a hearty, “Hey, don’t let your meat loaf!” then I just gave you a virtual high-five. In this context however, we’re taking about letting your meat “loaf” for a long time in a low oven, sitting in a rich, creamy shiitake mushroom gravy.

The main point of this exercise was to determine the benefits of cooking a meatloaf and sauce at the same time, in the same pan, but I was also planning on giving you a very nice “three meatloaf” recipe (using beef, pork and veal). Unfortunately, I wasn’t totally thrilled with the results, so you’ll have to wait until I perfect the final formula.

This "Three Meatloaf" recipe was good,
but not Food Wishes good, yet. Stay tuned!

Regardless, this technique will work with just about any meatloaf recipe out there. I really liked how the roasting meatloaf fortified the sauce with its flavorful drippings. The meatloaf was very moist, and seemed to have picked up some nuances from the sauce as well. One negative is you do have to skim a lot of fat off the top, but that seems a small price to pay for a quality one-dish meal.

You can adjust the texture of your gravy by adding more broth if it seems to be drying out during the cooking time, or, like I did, boil the sauce for a few minutes at the end to thicken it up a bit. Anyway, the next time you’re in the mood for meat in loaf form, and a creamy mushroom gravy, I hope you give this tasty technique a try. Enjoy!

Ingredients:

1/4 cup butter

2 cups sliced shiitake mushrooms

salt and pepper to taste

1/2 tsp minced fresh rosemary

3 tbsp all-purpose flour

2 1/2 cups cold beef broth

1/2 cup cream

1 ready for the oven meatloaf (2-3 pounds)

Parsnip Patties

Parsnips were not a vegetable we had very often if at all when I was growing up. My mother did not like them at all. In fact she tells a story of her father trying to tempt her to eat just a tiny piece of one in exchange for a piece of candy (when she was a child) and she hated them so much that she couldn't even be tempted with something that was only a very rare treat.

I remember her cooking them once when I was in my teen years. She pared and sliced them into coins and then fried them in butter until they were golden brown on both sides. Oh my but there were lovely. She had been wanting to see if her tastes had changed. Alas . . . they hadn't and so that was the only time we ever had the opportunity to taste them.



As an adult I have cooked them frequently for I love them. They are delicious in stews and soups . . . mashed with butter and cream, roasted, glazed . . . any way you cook or cut them, I find them most delicious. They are well one of my favourite vegetables.



With the holidays I had quite a few of them in the vegetable bin . . . parsnips love nothing more than to be roasted and glazed and served with a roast turkey or beef . . . or ham and pork. I always get in lots because they are my favourite side dish of the holidays.



I did get in rather a lot this year though . . . but no worries for today I had enough left to make these delicious Parsnip Patties. Oh my but they are some good.



Crispy and buttery on the outsides . . . creamy and mildly spiced with a delicate flavour and sweetness on the insides . . . such a pleasure to eat.



I like to make a Cranberry Mustard to eat with them. I just whisk together equal parts of a wild cranberry sauce and Dijon mustard. It is the perfect accompaniment.



Of course you can make them a lot smaller for appetizer sized servings, about the size of a one pound coin or silver dollar will do. You'd get quite a few of these and of course would need extra oil for frying.



They are easy to make ahead of time and then just reheat in the oven when you want them. If you like parsnips, you're going to love these!



*Parsnip Patties*
Serves 4 to 6
Printable Recipe

Creamy and sweet on the insides, crunchy on the outsides. Delicious! I like to serve them with a Dijon Cranberry Mustard which I make by whisking together equal parts of a whole berry cranberry sauce and Dijon mustard.

8 to 10 parsnips, peeled and sliced into coins
1/2 tsp salt
boiling water
to finish:
1/2 tsp onion salt
1/4 tsp dry mustard
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
a dash of cayenne pepper
1 medium free range egg, beaten
1 1/2 ounces fine dried bread crumbs (about 1/3 cup)

more dried bread crumbs for rolling
oil and butter for frying
snipped parsley for garnish

Cook the parsnips in the boiling water with the 1/2 tsp of salt until tender. Drain and mash well. Allow to cool. Stir in the first lot of bread crumbs and all of the seasonings, along with the beaten egg. Cover and place in the refrigerator to chill well.

Scoop the well chilled mixture out using a small handful and shape into patties. Coat with the additional bread crumbs.

Heat a few TBS of butter along with an equal amount of oil over medium heat until the butter begins to foam. Add the parsnip patties and cook until golden brown on both sides. Drain and then serve hot along with some cranberry mustard. Delicious! Garnish with chopped parsley if desired.



Baking in The Cottage today, some delicious Celebrations Brownies!

A Gorgeously Scrummy Assortment of Christmas Lunch Sides

Source: veryvintageimages.blogspot.com via Marie on Pinterest

As promised here is a delicious assortment of fabulous side dishes that go very nicely with your Christmas turkey, ham or roast beast! None are hard and with careful planning most can be done ahead of time and warmed up on the day once the main dish comes out of the oven and is resting.

There is still time to get in any ingredients that you are lacking! Two more sleeps! Enjoy!



*Brussels Sprouts with Buttered Chestnuts*
Serves 4
Printable Recipe

Another delicious way of preparing your sprouts.

350g of brussels sprouts, trimmed (3/4 of a pound)
3 TBS butter
100g of tinned whole chestnuts (3 1/2 ounces)
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
50g flaked almonds to garnish, toasted lightly ( about 1/4 cup)

Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil. Add the sprouts and cook for 5 minutes, then drain thoroughly.

Melt the butter in the saucepan over medium heat. Add the drained sprouts and cook, stirring for about 3 minutes or so, then add the chestnuts and nutmeg. Season to taste with salt and pepper, stirring all together well. Cook and heat through for a further 2 to 3 minutes, stirring. Transfer to a warm serving dish, sprinkle with the almonds and serve.



*Sugar Glazed Parsnips*
Serves 8
Printable Recipe

One of our favourite side dishes!

24 small parsnips, peeled
scant tsp of fine seasalt
4 ounces butter (1/2 cup)
115g of soft light brown sugar (1/2 cup)

Place the parsnips in a saucepan with lightly salted water just to cover. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover and simmer for 20 to 25 minutes until tender. Drain well.

Melt the butter in a heavy skillet. Add the parsnips and toss together well. Sprinkle with the sugar. Cook, stirring frequently to help prevent the sugar from sticking to the pan or burning. Cook for a further 10 to 15 minutes until golden and glazed. Transfer to a warmed serving dish and serve immediately.



*Spring Onions and Baby Peas*
Serves 6
Printable Recipe

A delicious and easy way to prepare and serve peas that is most impressive.

60g of unsalted butter (1/4 cup)
12 small bulbed spring onions (green or salad onions, or scallions as they are sometimes called)
trimmed (cut the bulbs off and discard the green bits or save for another use)
1 large bag of frozen petit pois (about 4 cups)
1 TBS caster sugar
4 sprigs of mint
3 or 4 large iceberg lettuce leaves

Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion bulbs and cook for about 2 minutes or so. Stir in the peas and season to taste with some seasalt and freshly ground black pepper. Sprinkle on the sugar and mint. cover with the lettuce leaves and 2 fluid ounces of water (1/4 cup). Place a tight fitting lid over all, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, until the peas are tender. Discard the lettuce and mint. Place into a heated serving dish and serve immediately.



*Braised Red Cabbage*
Serves 6 to 8
Printable Recipe

Wonderful with pork, goose, turkey. Spicy and slightly sweet.

2 TBS olive oil
500g (1 pound 2 ounces) red cabbage, sliced
1/2 medium red onion, peeled and thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tsp sea salt
1 granny smith apple, peeled and grated
100ml (3.5 fluid ounces) red wine vinegar
60g (1/3 cup packed) soft light brown sugar
250ml of dry white wine (1 cup)
250ml chicken stock (1 cup)

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the cabbage, onion, garlic and salt. Cook, stirring for several minutes, then stir in the apple, vinegar and brown sugar. Cook for a further 3 to 5 minutes. Pour in the wine and stock. Allow to simmer over low heat for a further 40 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is quite tender and the liquid reduced. Serve warm.



*Spiced and Roasted Winter Vegetables*
Serves 4
Printable Recipe

These are perfect for Christmas lunch because they offer a nice variety of vegetables without taking up most of the hob and dirtying a bunch of saucepans!

4 parsnips, scrubbed and trimmed, but unpeeled
4 carrots, scrummed and trimmed, but unpeeled
2 brown onions, peeled and quartered
1 red onion, peeled and quartered
3 leeks, trimmed and cut into 2 1/2 inch slices
6 garlic cloves, unpeeled and left whole
6 TBS extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp mild chili powder
pinch of sweet paprika
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 220*C/425*F/ gas mark 7. Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil.

Cut the parsnips and carrots into wedges of similar size. Add them to the boiling water and cook for about 5 minutes. Drain well and place into an ovenproof dish along with the onions, leeks and garlic. Pour over the oil, sprinkle with the spices and salt and pepper to taste. Mix together to coat the vegetables.

Roast in the preheated oven for about an hour, stirring occasionally from time to time, until they are tender and starting to colour.

Remove to a warmed serving dish and serve immediately.



*Chestnut and Sausage Stuffing*
Serves 6 to 8
Printable Recipe

One of our favourite stuffings. You may either use to stuff the bird, or shape into balls and baked separately. This is a delicious stuffing which goes very well with the richness of turkey or goose. It smells fabulous when baking.

225g of pork sausage meat (1/2 pound)
225g of unsweetened chestnut puree (1/2 pound)
85g of toasted walnuts, chopped (a scant 1/4 pound
115g of ready to eat dried apricots, chopped (1/4 pound)
2 TBs chopped fresh parsley
2 TBS snipped fresh chives
2 tsp chopped fresh sage leaves
4 to 5 TBS double cream
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Combine the sausage meat and chestnut puree in a bowl. Stir in the walnuts, apricots, parsley, chives and sage. Stir in enough cream to make a firm, but not dry mixture. Season to taste with some salt and black pepper. (I cook a tiny bit in a frying pan to have a taste.) If you are planning on stuffing a turkey or a goose, fill the neck cavity only to ensure that the bird cooks all the way through. It is safer and more reliable to cook the stuffing separately, either rolled into small balls and places on a baking sheet, or spooned into an ovenproof dish.

Cook the separate stuffing in a preheated oven for 30 to 40 minutes at 190*C/375*F/ gas mark 5. If you are cooking a bird at a lower temperature in the same oven, then it may take longer.



*Sprouts with Chestnuts and Pancetta*
Serves 6
Printable Recipe

One of my favourite ways to have sprouts!! Everyone seems to like these!

1 pound roasted chestnuts, peeled ( 2 cups)
300g of brussels sprouts (about 3/4 pound)
100g piece of pancetta, finely diced (about 1/4 poud)
50g of butter (3 TBS)
1 small red onion, peeled and finely chopped
1 TBS fresh thyme leaves
1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Remove and discard the tough outer leaves from the brussels sprouts. Trim the bases and peel the leaves away, one at a time, continuing to peel and trim until all the leaves have been removed. Set aside.

Saute the pancetta in a nonstick skillet over medium heat, until the fat has been rendered and the pancetta is crisp. Scoop the pancetta out of the pan with a slotted spoon to a plate. Melt half of the butter in with the fat from the pancetta. Add the onion and saute until softened, but not browned. Add the chestnuts and toss to warm through. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

Melt the remaining butter in the pan. Toss in the brussels sprout leaves, thyme and garlic. Cook, tossing together, until the leaves are crispy tender and bright green. Season to taste with seasalt and freshly ground black pepper. Return the pancetta, onion and chestnuts to the pan and heat through gently. Place into a warmed serving dish and serve immediately.



*Cranberry Sauce*
Serves 8
Printable Recipe

The flavour of citrus and cranberry go very well together. Delicious with roasted turkey, game, duck or chicken. This can be made ahead.

the thinly pared zest and juice of one unwaxed lemon
the thinly pared zest and juice of 1 large orange
350g (about 3/4 pound) of cranberries, thawed if frozen
140g of caster sugar (1 cup)
2 TBS cornflour mixed with 3 TBS cold water

Cut the peels of the lemon and orange rind into thin shreds and place in a heavy based saucepan. If you are using fresh cranberries, rinse well and remove any bits of leaf and stem. Add the berries, citrus juices and sugar to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally for about 5 to 8 minutes, until the berries begin to burst. Strain the juice into a clean saucepan. Reserve the cranberries. Stir the cornflour mixture into the juice and then bring to the boil, stirring constantly, until the sauce is smooth and thickened. Remove from the heat and stir in the reserved cranberries. Transfer to a bowl and allow to cool completely before covering with some plastic cling film and refrigerating.



Cooking in The Cottage today, some scrumdiddlyumptious Portugese Custard Tarts!

My Goose Was Already Cooked

Many years ago I remember trying to cook a Christmas goose. It wasn’t a total disaster, but I do remember gamey, less-than-tender meat, and copious amounts of grease. So, despite several food wishes for this iconic holiday roast, I decided it wasn’t something I wanted to revisit.

Then, I received an offer to try a pre-cooked, smoked goose from Schiltz Foods. They’re the country’s largest goose producer, and a sponsor of this year’s Tasty Awards. They were offering their geese to select Tasty Award nominees to try out, so I decided to give it a whirl.

I’ll admit to being skeptical since reheating pre-cooked meats usually don’t produce the best results. However, this turned out amazingly well. As you’ll see, the skin roasted up perfectly crisp, and the meat was moist and flavorful. By the way, I did zero food styling in this video, and the magazine-quality final product you see in these photos was exactly what came out of the oven.

Since the bird is brined and smoked, the taste is that of a very rich, moderately salty ham. So, if you want a Christmas goose that actually tastes like goose, this may not be your best choice. But, if you’re considering a holiday ham, and want a real showstopper in the center of the table, I think this is a great choice. Think of it as a delicious ham with wings.

I sacrificed half the wings to make a basic reduction sauce, and the subtle smokiness worked wonderfully with the red wine, balsamic vinegar, and blackberry notes. The sauce is certainly optional, as this could be served plain with just some cranberry sauce on the side. I hope you’re able to give this very easy-to-prepare, gorgeous roast goose a try. Enjoy!

1 whole pre-cooked smoked goose (mine was about 6 pounds)

For the sauce:

2 flat sections of goose’s wings

1/2 cup red wine

3 cups water

1 star anise

1/2 tsp fresh ground black pepper

1/4 cup aged balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup blackberry jam

2-3 tablespoons cold butter, cut in cubes

salt to taste

Disclaimer: As stated above, this post was made possible by Schiltz Foods, Inc., who provided the smoked goose free of charge. I’d like to thank them for bringing goose back into my life. If you want more information, or are interested in ordering a goose for the holidays, please follow this link to their official website.

All Gravies Are Sauces, But Not All Sauces Are Gravies

I got a bunch of emails after posting the Turkey Gravy with Porcini Mushrooms and Marsala Wine video, asking about the difference between a “gravy” and a “sauce.” Basically, a gravy is a sauce made from the pan drippings, both fat and juices, after a piece of meat is roasted. So, all gravies are sauces, but not all sauces are gravies. Got it?

So, my Turkey Gravy with Porcini Mushrooms and Marsala is technically a sauce, which I called a gravy purely for SEO-related reasons. This time of year, people are searching for turkey gravies, not turkey sauces.

Anyway, here’s a repost of a real turkey gravy, from our two-part Thanksgiving special we ran back in 2008. This just covers the gravy, so if you want to see how we got to this point, you can check out part one here. To read the original gravy post, click here. Enjoy!

Turkey Gravy with Porcini Mushrooms and Marsala Wine – Make-Ahead So You Don’t Get Behind

They say timing is everything; to which I would add, “was” everything, and “will be” everything. So, with that in mind I present this “make-ahead” turkey gravy with porcini mushrooms and Marsala wine.

The Thanksgiving Day kitchen is a busy, hectic scene that can intimidate even the most experienced cooks. As dinnertime approaches, you’re flying around the kitchen trying to get everything to the table, hot, looking delicious, and most importantly, on time.

While the turkey is resting under foil, you’re mashing potatoes, reheating sweet potatoes, warming rolls, and probably trying to finish a gravy. That’s a lot of stuff going on, and one reason new cooks are so afraid to try a big holiday meal.

However, by doing your gravy ahead of time, you make that last-minute production a lot easier, and your other offerings will benefit from the extra attention. That’s not to say I want you to throw away all those lovely turkey pan juices sitting in your roasting pan. Time permitting of course, strain them into a saucepan, boil them down, and add them to this sauce.

This recipe is made for adaptation, so feel free to use a drier white wine, sherry, or none at all. I highly recommend the caramelized porcini mushrooms, which are easy to find dried in any large grocery store, but you can also use any fresh varieties with delicious results. Anyway, if you’re looking to “gourmet up” this year’s turkey gravy, I hope you give this a try. Enjoy!

Turkey Gravy Ingredients (makes about 3-4 cups gravy):

For the turkey neck stock:

2 tsp vegetable oil

3-4 turkey necks

1 onion

1 rib celery

1 carrot
1/3 cup Marsala wine, or white wine

2 quarts cold water

2 garlic cloves

1 bay leaf

1/4 oz dried porcini mushrooms

For the sauce:

1/4 cup butter

1/4 oz dried porcini mushrooms

3 tbsp flour

about 6 cups of the reserved turkey neck stock

2 tbsp heavy cream

salt and pepper to taste

Luxury Cauliflower Cheese

Just look at the beautiful Romanesco Cauliflower that arrived in my veggie box yesterday! Isn't that gorgeous! I am ashamed to say that although I have seen these in the shops, I have never actually cooked one before. It looks just like a bunch of little Christmas Trees all stuck together doesn't it??? So pretty!!!



Romanesco Cauliflower is just a Roman type of cauliflower. It's not really anything to be afraid of. You can cook it in the same way as you would any cauliflower or broccoli and it is especially suited to be used as a crudite as it is somewhat more tender than those other two. It's got a milder flavour as well . . . creamy and almost nutty.



I decided to make a Cauliflower Cheese with it for our lunch. It wasn't a huge one, so it was just the perfect size for the two of us and oh-so-fresh. I trimmed it well and cut it in half down the middle before steaming . . . just until the tip of a knife easily slid into it and then I made the most luxurious cheese sauce . . .



Rich and creamy . . . befitting something as royal looking as a Romanesco Cauliflower . . . using two kinds of cheese and um . . . cream.



I napped the tender Romanesco with the delicious rich and creamy sauce and then I crowned it with a buttery crumb and Gran Padano Cheese topping . . .



And then I baked it until it was browned and bubbling . . . those crumbs all crisp and golden on top . . . that sauce gilding it in rich cheesyness . . . oh my but it was some good.



We didn't need anything else . . . just a tasty plate of green and golden scrumminess. Sigh . . .



*Luxury Cauliflower Cheese*
Serves 4 as a side, 2 to 3 as a main
Printable Recipe

Tender choice pieces of cauliflower in a luxuriously rich cheese sauce with a crispy crumbed topping.

1 large cauliflower
1 litre of milk (about 4 cups)
1 large bayleaf, cracked
1 small onion, peeled
2 whole cloves
50g of butter (1/4 cup)
50g of flour (1/4 cup)
4 TBS double cream
sea salt and white pepper to taste
a grating of fresh nutmeg
8 ounces grated strong cheddar cheese (1/2 pound)
2 TBS grated Gran Padano Cheese

For the topping:
2 TBS finely grated Gran Padano cheese
1 TBS butter, melted
a couple handfuls of crackers, finely crushed

Place the milk in a saucepan along with the onion, studded with the cloves and the bayleaf. Bring to the boil and then remove from the heat and set aside to infuse for about 15 minutes.

Trim the cauliflower and break into florets. Place in the top of a steamer, over some boiling water, cover and steam just until the point of a knife inserts easily. Remove from the stove and carefully place into a lightly buttered gratin dish. Set aside, and keep warm.

Preheat the oven to 220*C/425*F/ gas mark 7.

Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium low heat. Whisk in the flour. Cook and stir for several minutes until golden and the flour taste has cooked out. Slowly whisk in the hot milk, holding back the onion and cloves. Allow the bay leat to go into the pan too. Cook, stirring constantly over medium low heat until the mixture thickens and bubbles. Cook on low for about 10 minutes, stirring often to help keep it from catching on the bottom. Whisk in the cheeses until they are melted and whisked in completely. Season to taste with some salt, the white pepper and a grating of nutmeg. Pour this over the cauliflower in the gratin dish.

Mix together the melted butter, Gran Padano Cheese and cracker crumbs. Sprinkle this mixture over top of the cheese sauce on the cauliflower. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes until golden brown and bubbling at the edges, with a lovely crisp crumbed topping. Let sit for a few minutes before serving.



Cooking in The Cottage today, a delicious Black Bean Soup.

“Mango Cranbango” – Fresh Cranberry Sauce with Dried Mango and Ghost Pepper

Don’t let the ridiculous name fool you; this delicious cranberry sauce recipe would make a wonderful condiment for your Thanksgiving turkey. My wife Michele, a cranberry sauce aficionado, says it’s the best she’s ever tasted.

Conservative estimates have the number of different cranberry sauces she’s tasted over the years at somewhere around 37, so that’s very high praise indeed. While the taste of this sauce is an unmitigated success, the name is another story.

You’ll have to forgive me, but when you post as many recipes as I do, once in a while you just have to give “half the peace sign” to those search engine algorithms, and simply amuse yourself. The “mango” and the “cran” in the name are obvious, but the “bango” comes from a few drops of hot sauce featuring the infamous ghost pepper.

I’m not sure if it’s the hottest pepper in the world, but the Bhut Jolokia is right up there. You can get the actual pepper if you look hard enough, but I had a bottle of Dave's Ghost Pepper Hot Sauce in the fridge, which worked perfectly.

It’s amazing how hot this stuff really is, and a few drops were all I needed. Believe it or not, more than just providing a searing heat, the pepper is actually celebrated for its fruity sweetness as well. By the way, while it may look like blatant product placement in the video, I can assure you I was not paid to use this specific brand (not that I’d be above such a thing…Dave, call me).

Anyway, if you’re looking for a creative, unusual, yet still relatively familiar fresh cranberry sauce for your holiday table, I hope you give this a try. Enjoy!

Ingredients:

12 oz fresh whole cranberries

4 oz dried candied mango

zest of 1 lemon

zest of 1 orange

1 cup fresh orange juice, plus the juice of 1 lemon

1/3 cup water

1 cup sugar

1 star anise

1 cinnamon stick

1 tsp finely grated fresh ginger

1 tsp garam masala (or other Indian-style curry spice blend)
dash of hot sauce, to taste

pinch of salt

Slow Cooker Braised Pork Shoulder Roast with Apple Butter Sauce – Reducing the Need for Roux

Man, I’ve been making a lot of rouxs lately (which you’ll be seeing in all their buttery glory in a series of upcoming holiday videos), but for this apple cider braised pork roast, I wanted to keep things a little lighter and decided to use a classic reduction.

We’ve done dozens of similar style sauces, but most of those were traditional pan sauces, where the skillet is deglazed with some kind of flavorful liquid, which is reduced down, and finally finished with butter.

This is basically the same technique; except here we’re reducing the braising liquid from the slow cooker while our pork rests. By the way, I keep saying “cider” because it sounds and looks better in print, but I actually used apple juice. Both work very well, but a just-pressed, unfiltered cider would be my official recommendation.

One thing to remember about these types of reduction sauces is that a little goes a long way. You’re taking an already flavorful liquid and reducing down to maybe 25% of its original volume. This is also the reason you shouldn’t season it until the end. After the cold butter is whisked into the sauce, and your herb of choice has been added, give it a taste and adjust for salt then.

Since we’re using a relatively small amount of braising liquid for this big a hunk of meat, I decided to use the slow cooker. You can certainly do this on the stovetop, over very low heat, or in a slow (275 degrees F.) oven, but neither is quite as convenient. Regardless of your cooking method, I hope you give this delicious pork shoulder a try soon. Enjoy!
 

Ingredients:
4-5 pound pork shoulder roast (boneless or bone-in work fine)

salt and pepper to taste

1 tbsp vegetable oil

a couple shallots or yellow onion, sliced

1 rib celery, chopped

1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

2 1/2 cups apple cider or juice

4 peeled garlic cloves

1 bay leaf

cayenne to taste

1 rounded teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons cold butter cut into small cubes

1 tbsp fresh herb – parsley, sage, thyme, etc.

Country Gravy – Deliciously Dingy and Definitely Diner

This sausage country gravy recipe comes from a time before cooks tried to think of ways to trim a few calories, but rather, thought of ways to sneak more calories into a dish. This was a meal that was meant to fill you up and keep you satisfied for a long time.

In addition to the astronomically high calorie count, another advantage of a milk gravy that’s been thickened with a roux made from the rendered fat of meat scraps, is it’s very cheap. So, when you combine “cheap,” with “filling,” and “delicious,” you have all the makings of a diner classic, which this certainly is.

In a diner, this gravy (also known as sausage gravy or cream gravy) would be made with leftover cooked sausage links and other breakfast meat scrapes like crumbled bacon, or ham ends. Since we’re making ours from scratch, we have the advantage of all that freshly rendered fat to make the light roux.

This method is more authentic and flavorful, but admittedly does nothing to improve the recipe’s dingy color and questionable appearance. Let’s face it, some great recipes are just plain ugly and that’s the way it is. I used a low fat milk, which makes for the dingiest color, but whole milk or cream, if you want this extra rich, do look marginally better.

As I mention in the video, if you’ve eaten this before, and know how shockingly good it can be, the look of the dish never crosses your mind. If this were a blind date, the recipe would be described as being “really fun with an amazing personality.”

As far as serving suggestions go, you can’t miss with fresh baked buttermilk biscuits (even though I used store bought, we have a great recipe, which you can see here), but this is also out-of-this-world on things like country-fried steak, and fried chicken. I really hope you give this a try soon. Enjoy!

Ingredients:

2 tbsp butter

8 oz breakfast sausage

4 strips bacon

1/2 cup chopped green onions

1/3 cup packed all-purpose flour

salt and pepper to taste

cayenne to taste

2 1/2 cups milk, more or less as needed