Yashin, Kensington

'Without Soy Sauce but if you want to' is Yashin's motto. Their belief is that their chefs season their sushi and sashimi correctly without you needing to dip anything in soy, as is the norm. A fairly odd motto in its non-commital nature, but that was the general feeling I got from the place, further amplified by the very strange weird Euro-electro lift music playing throughout the restaurant.

Having been to the much-lauded Yashin twice now, I can safely say it's hugely expensive. Sure, the dishes look pretty, but £30 for the Omekase 8 selection (8 nigiri and a maki roll) is quite wild.


The sushi was beautifully presented and it very much reminded me of Sushi of Shiori's style with a little dab of toppings. It differs in that the fish is blow torched so that it's lightly scorched and sitting at the bar gives the best vantage point of the chefs at work. In particular, salmon topped with ponzu jelly was a favourite.

The omekase isn't enough for a complete meal so we had starters too. I only tried one of the marinated oysters and the shallot dressing was over-powering. The blue-dyed ice was pretty though.

Speaking of pretty, we ordered a piece of scallop sashimi after the white spheres of flesh looked so delicious in the cabinet. Balanced on a gold globe atop a piece of shiso leaf, the attention to detail was stunning. Similarly, carpaccio of grouper with a spicy dressing lacked any spiciness but was arranged and fanned beautifully.


It wasn't all a success. Seafood salad with potato, vinegar and sweet miso was disappointingly low in seafood. Much like aforementioned carpaccio, the soft shell crab starter came piled high with undressed and superfluous leaves.

Ultimately, it seemed a little style over substance. Sure, the fish was expertly prepared with well matched seasonings, but for the money I'd rather go back to Sushi of Shiori for a more homely and comfortable feel. Their omekase, a multicourse affair was far more exciting and stimulating than just a plate of sushi brought to you. I left feeling slightly ripped off and not quite satisfied; both feelings that you never want to leave a restaurant with.

Yashin

1A Argyll Road
Kensington
London W8 7DB

Tel: 020 7938 1536